Custom House, Dublin

 Custom House 

The Custom House is a neo-classical building located on the north banks of the River Liffey, close to Dublin’s financial district. When an older Custom House was deemed no longer fit for purpose in the late 18th Century, John Beresford (Ireland’s first commissioner for Revenue). James Gandon (1743 - 1823), the English-born architect, was appointed in charge of the project. While this was Gandon’s first major commission, he was later involved with other works, such as the Four Courts and Kings Inns in Dublin, and Emo Court in Laois. 

The new Custom House was originally unpopular with Dublin Corporation and many of the city’s merchants, as it was felt it shifted the axis of the city, and would leave insufficient room for shipping. 

Construction started in 1781, and was completed in late 1791, at an estimated cost of £200,000 - a considerable sum at the time.

The four facades of the Custom House are decorated with coat-of-arms and sculptures by Edward Smyth, representing Ireland’s rivers. Another artist, Henry Banks, created the statues around the Custom House, including the one on the top of the dome.

Just east of the building, the dock and swing bridge were also designed by Gandon, and building of these was finished in 1798. In the 1940’s the old dock was filled in and the swing bridge removed, to be replaced by an extended quay, and later to be replaced by Memorial Road. 

Over time the port of Dublin moved downriver, and the Custom House became obsolete for it’s intended purpose of collecting customs duties. After this it became headquarters for the Local Government Board for Ireland.

During the War of Independence in 1921, the Irish Republican Army burned down the Custom House, in order to destroy tax records and thereby disrupt British rule in Ireland. The original interior of the Custom House was completely destroyed as a result, and the central dome collapsed. Important historical records were also lost in the fire. Despite the fire achieving the Irish Republican Army’s objectives, they lost a lot of Volunteers in the attack and when falling back. 

After the Anglo-Irish Treaty (signed in December 1921), the Irish Free State government restored the building. This restoration work is still evident on the building today - the dome was rebuilt using Ardbraccan limestone, instead of the original Portland stone, which was lighter in colouring. 

In November 2021, a Visitor Centre was opened in the Custom House, and it reveals the story behind this wonderful building and it’s place in Irish history. It is well worth a visit, and the staff are very welcoming and knowledgeable.

The GPO

 

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  The GPO

  History of the General Post Office (GPO), Dublin

  The GPO is one of Ireland’s most famous buildings in Dublin city centre.

  It is the headquarters of An Post, the Irish postal service, and plays a huge part in Ireland’s history. It served as the headquarters of the leaders of the 1916 Easter Rising, who were fighting against British rule in Ireland. It also has the distinction of being the last great Georgian building erected in Dublin and was designed by Francis Johnston, an Anglo-Irish architect. The foundation stone was laid in August 1814 by the Lord Lieutenant of Ireland, Charles Whitworth and was completed in 1818, at a cost, depending on sources of between £50,000 and £80,000. 

  It is located on O’Connell Street, which at the time was called Sackville Street, and is the main thoroughfare in Dublin, as well as it’s widest street. Up until 1966, the GPO was faced by Nelson’s Column, until it was blown up by a bomb allegedly planted by Republicans. In it’s place stands the Spire, a monument which itself appears to be loved and hated amongst Dubliners. The Spire stands at 120 metres tall and can be seen from a variety of points throughout the city.

  At the time of the 1916 Easter Rising, the GPO, and Sackville Street itself, would have been seen by some as representative of the British elite, due to their ostentatious nature.

  To mark the start of the Easter Rising, the Irish flag was raised and Padraig Pearse (Commander-in-Chief of the Irish Volunteers) stood in front of the GPO and read out the Irish Proclamation which declared Ireland a sovereign nation. The following number of days saw massive bloodshed and violence around the city, with remnants of some of the bullet holes still visible in the front of the GPO. While much of the GPO was destroyed during this violence, the grand pillars at the front of the building remained and the building was rebuilt in 1929. 

  While the GPO still functions as the headquarters of An Post, it also hosts a museum telling the story of the 1916 Easter Rising through a variety of mediums. The museum can be seen on your own, or through one of it’s guided tours. The museum also contains artifacts relating to Irish culture. There is a bronze statue of Cu Chulainn there, once described by Eamonn DeValera as ‘a beautiful piece of sculpture, the creation of Irish genius, symbolizing the dauntless courage and abiding constancy of our people’. Another piece of art worth viewing is the sculpture ‘They are of us all’, which commemorates the loss of 40 children during the Easter Rising. 

  This building and it’s museum is worth visiting when on a trip to Dublin, to appreciate it’s architecture and beauty, as well as the huge part it played in Irish history.

  For information on opening times, please see the GPO website.